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Gasket Making Hudson gasket sets are often hard to find. When you cannot find a proper gasket one method for overcoming the immediate need is to make your own. One method often overlooked in the use of the original part to make your new gasket. There are several methods, but the following two methods have been used successfully. One: purchase sheet stock gasket material of the same type as the original gasket being replaced. Cut a piece of gasket about 1-2 inches larger than the dimensions of the surface for which the gasket is to be placed once manufactured. Examine each half of the two surfaces to be gasket-ed, select the half that has the deepest inner cavity as a template /tool for making your gasket. Now while firmly holding your gasket material against the selected surface, use a small metallic tool to carefully tap around the edges of the object to be gasket-ed. Your will find that with care you will outline the part (template) and the gasket material will be cleanly cut. Continuing to hold the gasket in place, tap at the interior surfaces of the part, again the gasket should outline the inner edge. If your are successful a completed replacement gasket will be your reward. Two: Again purchase a proper sized piece of gasket material as well as a stamp pad inking stick. Using the stamp pad stick quickly ink all of the surfaces of the part to be gasket-ed. Once ink has been applied, place that surface onto the gasket material, taking care to not smear your impression. Remove the part and you will have a gasket positive that can be cut out with a craft knife or razor blade. These two methods have been used successfully on STEPDOWN WA1 carbs, 3 spd. and overdrive transmissions, Timing cover and valve cover gaskets, Rear end housings, and Water pumps. Submitted by Ken Cates SANJUANA@aol.com |
HET PARTS
Vintage Coach - Bill Albright, WORLDS Largest HET Dealer, Cars, New-Used and Rebuilt Parts and Full Service. 16593 Arrow Blvd. Fontana California. 714-823-9168
Al Saffrahn @ 520-568-2911 western sheet metal and tons of parts and cars, Makes his living restoring cars and the mechanics of Hudsons or all years. Al has an outdoor department store of Hudson parts!! - NOTE: Summer 2004 Business with property is FOR SALE, call Al.
Huge NOS
Hudson Parts Stock:Contact Gene Eshelman - hundreds of NOS and used Hudson parts at
reasonable prices. E-mail him your needs.
1000s of HET PARTS – Check with Ed Faust erf@bluefrog.com from Bolivar NY. I still have thousands of het parts - Nos
and used.It takes time to inventory. Call @585-593-1712 ( July 2004)
Ed is a great fellow who collected a bunch of
Hudson parts when dealers were going out of business. He has provided me with
many NOS parts for my Hudsons. Ken Cates
Reproduction
Vent widow Gears and rebuilding services for window gear boxes: email Gene
Eshelman
Large stock of NOS and Used Hudson Parts: Ken Amman, 240 Raleigh Pl., Lennon, MI 48449 (810)
621-3665. NOS and used parts and some cars for sale.
Hudson
Service Replacement Parts:
supplier of fuel pumps, water
pumps, brake parts, seals, carbs, hoses, thermostats, gaskets, ignition,
electrical for most year HET cars. Dave Kostansek, 7902 Route 7, Williamsfield,
Ohio 44093 (440) 293-4079, until 10 p.m. EST
Hudson
Essex Terraplane Club Store: Hudson manuals and some Hudson parts.
HET Club Store
630 J.E. Woody Rd.
Springtown, TX 76082
Or Call: John Clement 817-220-5858 Email: HETClubStore@hotmail.com
Restoration Resources: This listing compliments of Southern California HET Chapter
Cork Clutch and Pressure
Plate Renewal.... Hudson Driveline
Wizard Doug Wildrick he can be
contacted at Doug Wildrick,9225 Indian Creek Rd.S. ,Indpls.,In.46259 Ph.#317-862-4171,
He rebuilds clutch disc, pressure plates, throw-out bearings, pilot bearings,
pressure plate gaskets, and clutch
fluid. He also resurfaces flywheels. He will try to help on technical
questions also, call or write and/or e-mail. He does mechanical repairs on old cars also, mostly
Hudson's. visit his web site for prices www.vintageautorestoration.com
CARSON’S AUTO PARTS - 235 Shawfarm Rd, Holliston, MA 01746
Vintage Auto Parts 1915 Thru
1960's Mechanical, Ignition, Brake,
Large Stock of Gaskets, Brakes, Cables Ignition, Standard Transmission Parts,
Water Pumps, Fuel Pumps. 508-429-2269
FAX 508-429-0761
Fender skirts and Sunvisors for Hudson: over 15,000 in stock. NOS, used, originals, Foxcrafts, reproductions, metal and fiberglass, bubbles, teardrops, cruisers, outside sun visors. Big Jim's, Box 174, Whitney, TX 76692. Information 254-694-5830; orders 1-800-874-6240; FAX 254-694-6880 email: Big Jims website:http://www.bigjims.net/Default1.htm
Windshield Wipers - Vacuum Repair and parts support: Ficken Wiper Service- vacuum wiper motor rebuilding service. 7 day turn around. Hudson motors rebuilt 54.00 plus 5.00 shipping in U.S. Large supply of wiper blades, arms, and etc. 132 Calvert Avenue, West Babylon, NY 11704 (631) 587-3332
Part
Numbers for Hudson Wiper Parts – provided by Park Waldrop
1948-54
Hudson Windshield Wiper Transmission & Cable Assemblies
Note: For a given
model, Hudson part number pairs (for L and R side) start with the right
side;
the left side is one digit higher.
Trico part numbers start with the left side;
and
the right side is one digit higher.
|
Trico Part # |
Hudson Part # |
L/R Side |
Application |
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|
81351 |
213582 |
L |
1948-50
all |
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|
|
81352 |
213581 |
R |
1948-50
all |
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|
81351 -
1 |
225107 |
L |
1951
except Hollywood |
||
|
81351 -
1 |
225106 |
R |
1951
except Hollywood |
||
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|
|
|
|
81351 -
2 |
228227 |
L |
1951
Hollywood |
|
|
|
81352 -
2 |
228226 |
R |
1951
Hollywood |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
81351 -
3 |
230055 |
L |
1952 (See note 1) |
|
|
|
81352- 3 |
230054 |
R |
1952 (See note 1) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
81352 -
4 |
235786 |
R |
1953-54
Jet (See below for LH side |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
81351 -
5 |
233501 |
L |
1952-54 except Jet (See note 2) |
|
|
|
81352 -
5 |
233500 |
R |
1952-54 including Jet (See note 2) |
|
|
Notes:
1.
Cars with
wiper motor mounted to the right of firewall centerline
- 1952s with wiper motor mounted to the left of firewall centerline
Windshield Wipers - Vacuum to Electric Conversion:
VACUUM TO ELECTRIC WIPERS NEW 2 Speed Electric Wiper Motor And Switch Conversion Kits FOR MOST CLASSIC VEHICLES AND YEARS Bolt In Job No CUTTING, $169.95.psh COMPLETE EM FBOTTE@AOL.COM
Clay
Hannah- electric wiper conversion
for step-downs. Clay Hanna Tool Service, 7411 Northeast 71st Street,
Oklahoma City, OK 73105 (405) 848-2334
Fuel Tank
Sending unit or RANCO Valve repair: Lance Walker, of Charlotte, NC - Contact Lance @ HORNETLLWALKER@AOL.COM (Thanks to BJ in Tenn. July 2004)
Hoses for Oil Filters:
Tractor Supply Company operates farm and ranch stores through out Texas, possibly other states too. This company regularly stocks a wide variety of pre made hoses of the type used to connect the Oil Filter on a Hudson to the engine block. The cost is in the neighborhood of $5.00 per hose. (Ken Cates)
Gary Fox TX. (Mar 1998) Hey guys, I have 51 Pacemaker. Need to replace two hoses on Fram oil filter, do you know of any sources?
Motor Mounts for Step-downs: Dave Sollon (Apr 1998 ) For mounts, you can use AMC 6 cyl front mounts that are available at NAPA MM-2280. They were used on Ambassador, Hornet, Javelin, Gremlin They are square, rather than round, but bolt up perfect and are stronger.
AIR CONDITIONING FOR ANTIQUE AND VINTAGE CARS - VINTAGE AIR
Get Certified by EPA to do your own Air-conditioning repairs and service - And LOTS MORE About auto air-conditioning
AMERICA'S CAR PART SEARCH - Search page for all of the USA for used auto parts
AUTO PARTS FINDER - Search page for all of the USA for used auto parts
ANTIQUE PARTS DEPOT - Huge warehouse full of antique car and truck parts from 1912 through the 1960's. Twenty years of satisfied customers worldwide. Knowledgeable! Valuable assistance, options, parts identification and proper nomenclature. Daily UPS pickups assure customers of fast, reliable delivery.
ALLEN FLEMING ON LINE - HUGE American Motors web site - These folks know about Hudsons and parts
Cannon’s RESTORATION LINKS - The Web master states...Many of the following links may be helpful to your restoration (example: welding a panel on a GMC truck is similar to welding a panel on an MG Midget) I would say a HUDSON is the same as a GMC truck for metal restoration.... there is a wealth of info here.
CHAMPION SPARK PLUGS - spark plugs of course
CLIFFORD PERFORMANCE - 6=8 HUDSON Engine parts and technical information
DAVE SOLLON'S LINKS - Parts sources available for HUDSONS located on Dave's Home page
ELECTRIC'S REBUILDER: - Yesteryear- Antique Automotive parts 1920 - Present
"Specializing in Ignition and electrical supplies" Rebuilding services for 6 and 12 volt electronics
Egge Machine- The Parts House for Old Cars Listing ID 9159 Phone 800 866-3443; 562 945-3419 Fax 562 693-1635 Mail Egge Machine Company, 11707 Slauson Ave., Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 USA
GREENBAY PARTS WORLD : Owner offers one-step shopping for Hudson Engine parts ...Now, for the products that we can provide. We are specialized in supplying engine parts, and can obtain most gaskets and engine parts for all year Hudsons. Obviously, not all parts are available, especially the early cars, but we try our best. For some parts, we can have the customers parts repaired if no replacements are available. These items are cams, water pumps, oil pumps, and fuel pumps. These are sent out to a rebuilder and can take several weeks up to two months or more to rebuild.
HYDAMATIC TRANSMISSION REBUILD KITS & GASKETS - Online chart for gasket selection
Bill Hirsh Automotive Restoration Products: Our Mission "We have been in business for over 35 years and carry an extensive line of automotive restoration products. We stand behind every one of our world famous products and are confident that our experience, friendly service, and knowledge will best serve you in your restoration project."Bill Hirsch Contact / Ordering Information Please contact us using the information provided below. You can call, fax, mail or e-mail us to place an order, request samples and receive information. Most of our orders are processed and shipped the same day. Telephone 800 828 2061 (International or NJ 973 642 2404) Fax 973 642 6161 Postal address 396 Littleton Ave. Newark NJ 07103
J.C. WHITNEY on line - My favorite spot to buy parts for HUDSONS during the 60-70s!
KANTER AUTO PARTS - HUDSON ENGINE PARTS - Also has other Hudson mechanical parts
MACS ANTIQUE AUTO PARTS - look at the links on this page many are needed to support HUDSONS
SEMA - Many Links to all sorts of automotive support use the search engine to find your needs.
SEALS - Parts House Search form for HUDSON SEALS
SHOCK ABSORBER COMPANY - MONROE
SHOCK ABSORBER SELECTION - HUDSON
SUSPENSION PARTS Rare Parts, Inc. manufactures and distributes steering and suspension parts and components including the obsolete and hard-to-find suspension parts for domestic and import cars and trucks from 1930 to the current year. Rare Parts, Inc. sells worldwide to customers in the automotive trade from our location in Stockton California. Over 600,000 suspension parts in stock.
Step-down front springs: Coil Spring Specialties, in Kansas. They have all the specs, and are great to deal with. I think they can tell you what you've got (and if you need new ones, they're an excellent source). Phone 785-437-2025; email info@coilsprings.com ..........Park W.: 6/7/2001
Windshield Wiper parts - THOMAS J. SESTAK - TRICO & ANCO WIPER PARTS SPECIALIZING IN HARD TO FIND WIPER PARTS
Steele Rubber Products 6180 Hwy 150 East Denver, NC 28037-9735 800-544-8665
We are the manufacturer and distributor of restoration rubber parts for antique and collector cars. Just call 800-544-8665 for a 440 page illustrated catalog. With same day shipping, excellent customer service and a 100% money back guarantee Steele is the perfect choice for your restoration rubber needs. Visit Us!
K-Gap Hudson Automotive Parts PO Box 3065 Santa Fe, CA 90670 714-523-0403
1929-1957 Hudson, Essex, and Terraplane authentic reproduction weather seals, lenses and some accessory items. Call for catalog. Email: Kgap@earthlink.net
METRO- RUBBER RESTORATION PARTS & WEATHER-STRIPPING -THE WEATHER-STRIP EXPERTS How to install the weather-strip on your car. Practical installation guide for the restorer. Call toll free with your order at 1-800-878-2237
High quality repro glove boxes - available in black cardboard, (flocked where necessary) ready for installation. Shipped from central Pennsylvania. 1936 through 1953. $25.00 plus $5.00 shipping to most everywhere - ask for shipping costs overseas. Contact Allan Minard at 749 Houtztown Road, Myerstown Pennsylvania 17067. Phone 717-933-5738 or E-Mail to minard@nbn.net
PARTS POSSIBILITIES FOR HUDSON STEPDOWNS
Use this information with care
No Guarantees are made … Always compare the new part to the original
Brake Kit for Step-down. NAPA #80409 Dave S Hudson Chat
Hudson Wheel Bearings Here are the bearing cup and cone numbers, these are from the Hudson parts book and NAPA can use them to get you what you need as I just bought these same bearings for my car. Front inner cone Timken #15123, front inner cup NAPA #15245. The outer bearing numbers for good measure are cone Timken #09067, cup Timken #09195. A note on bearings the numbers are usually (but not always) stamped on the bearing and the cup, your parts house or a local bearing house to get you what you need can reference these. Also for good measure here is the NAPA seal number for you #16246. Check that the cups pressed into your hub have not `spun` in the hub as this is what happened to me and I’ve been told it is a relatively common occurrence. From the Hudson Chat Ted Parrott: 6/10/2001 - 1/1/1900 8:27:31 PM
Front Seal 51/52 standard transmissions NAPA for a National 6337 or Chicago Rawhide 13421 Dave S Hudson Chat
'53 Hydra Transmission seal, same as 57-61 Chevrolet turbo glide #46328- Dave S Hudson Chat
Hudson Axle Seals Dave Kostansek (440 293-4079) has all but the rear inners. For those, I don't know of a current equivalent seal available. Maybe someone else out there has found one. They're still showing up at flea markets within the club. The old NAPA number for rear outer was 49218; it's now CR 17310. Fronts are CR 15960 or National (?) 482253. Park (Dec 7 1999) Hudson Chat
51 Pinion Seal (Others?) NAPA 47897 or National 47331 Park: 1/14/00 – Hudson Chat
Hudson Windshield glass Lo-Can has repro new ones at about $275 inch pk & shp.1800-889-3826 Larry Cramer (Jan 2 2000) Hudson Chat
Hudson Step-down Radiator: What radiator to use in a Hornet...1976 and up (not sure how far up Dodge full size Van with `360`and maybe the `440` engine. perfect fit, Just requires small relieving of the brackets. Hoses will line up. Just measure everything first to make sure. Press Kale has one of these on his 1948 Commodore with the Slant six engine. Dave Keister //// Hudson BBS....
HUDSON SHOCKS : The Manual says the front shocks should be 7 3/4" to 12" and the rear should be 13 3/16 to 21 15/16" the following shocks were recommended by Chuck Fellows to meet these specifications:
Front:
Gabriel # 82026 ( they measure 8-13") and are available from Auto Zone
Rear : Gabriel # 82154 ( they measure 13 11/16 to 22 11/16) available at
Auto Zone
Rear: Gabriel # 81318 and # 73126 have the same measurements as the 82154)
GAS SHOCKS FOR HUDSONS:
Gabriel gas shock #s: front # 82028 & # 81147 for the rears. Just put on my
`53 HH & are great. Pete Booz: 12/28/2000 Advance Auto Parts Gas
Rear-PA 15740070 11.99 each Standard Front PA
15740132
NAPA- 94080 for rear,
Front shock support plates: available from Doug
Wildrick @ 30.00 a pair.
Other Step-down Replacement Part Numbers
Standards Trans 53-54 Front Seal --national
473436
Standard Trans rear seal with overdrive --national 8160S
Drive shaft u -joints --NAPA 369
OD kick down switch--NAPA OD6287 (need 9/16 18 jam nuts to use)
Front hydro seal-- Victor 49721
Throw out bearing seal-- Victor 49100
Twin H Carburetor heat insulator gasket Delco 3692799
Step-down tie rod ends NAPA 269-2241 right,
269-2240 left,
Step-down drive shaft U joints NAPA
36
front hydro seal
Victor 49721
Pinion seal 52-54: NAPA 47559
Step-down brake Shoes CAR QUEST - RS-263 and
RS-9
Paper filters for twin H NAPA 2110, AC A130C,
Fram CA1-1PL, CARQUEST 87110, Motorcraft FA11,
Purolator
A20021, WIX 42110
Drive shaft isolators
NAPA-Belkamp 3-5090 or NAPA Walker 3-512
Wasp/pacemaker 53-54
drive shaft carrier bearing #FS 88107 also 88506
Fan
belts
all 1948-54 w/o power steering belt 41 and
3/16" x 3/4" wide 34degree angle; Gates 8370,
614
or 699, NAPA 349 will work. Cars with p/s Gates 8209 for gen/fan
and Gates 8320 for
steering
pump.
Gas tank brass float
Ford dealer part #COAZ9202B
Electric fuel pump NAPA
-Borg Warner #EP11 for 6 volt and EP12B for 12 volt
Overdrive kick down The
Jeepsterman, 908-458-3966 part #649790 $18 , NAPA OD 6284, $15.40
CATERPILLAR PARTS INTERCHANGE FOR
HUDSON
- provided by: RUDY BENNETT
1B4109--STD-FLYWHEEL PILOT BEARING
4F2926--CENTER STEERING BEARINGS ( 2-required )
6D6306--12-VOLT OVER-DRIVE RELAY
7C9748--12-VOLT HIGH-FLOW FUEL PUMP (pulse-type )
9Y5011--OIL FILL PIPE FILTER
153-5690--6-VOLT BATTERY ( group-2 )
3H7927--1/2 STUDS FOR CLIFFORD HEAD
4B4314--BUTTON-HEAD RIVET ( fits under top of shift lever to
column )
1P5121--7/16 WASHERED BOLTS, FOR OIL PAN-TIMING COVER.
(ELEMENTS OIL LEAKS
2A4639--3/8 BOLTS TO HOLD THE PONTIAC CAM GEAR AND ADAPTOR
TO CAMSHAFT.
NON-CAT PARTS
48474--NAPA SPEEDO GABLE FOR 48-51 STD.TRANSMISSION.
FUEL-PUMP KIT--781-335 1579, ANTIQUE AUTO PARTS.
RANCO HEATER CONTROL KIT 203-287 9830
AutoSource database over 2,000 service/supply vendors in the AutoSource database so if you don't provide any search criteria you will get a ton of information. You can search for a vendor that is a specialist for your Marquee or for a vendor that provides services for a wide range of Marquees. Vendors are organized by the service categories on the menu. You can really refine your search by giving both.
CLASSIC CONCEPTS - INLINE 6 ENGINE CLUB MEMBER'S LINKS - Really large set of links for restoration needs
Classic Car Parts & Car Accessories - Index page with many links for the restorer
HUDSON CARS FOR SALE ON THE WEB - Classified ads
Listing of Junk yards across the USA indexed by State
TAYLOR'S AUTOMOTIVE TECH LINE - On line technical information about repair and maintenance of automobiles
Original Literature - Walter Miller address: 6710 Brook lawn Parkway, Syracuse, NY 13211, Phone: (315) 432-8282, Fax: (315) 432-8256 - Dealer who has HUDSON literature 1909 to present 2 million pieces.
The following sections contain information that will assist you in the proper maintenance and the overhaul / restoration of STEPDOWN components. HOW TO DO information describes a way of accomplishing a task. The HOW to DOs may also include the "tricks of experience" learned by another STEPDOWN owner and passed on to you.
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1948 |
1949 |
1950 |
1951 |
1952 |
1953 |
1954 |
HUDSON TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS: The following links will take you to information Mr. Alex Burr has taken the time to make available to the Hudson enthusiasts. Provide your appreciation with an email to Alex or if your are interested in having this data on a CD he will provide it for a reasonable fee. Use your browsers back function to return to this page.
1) TS 77-1 -
1948-1954 Dual Headlight Relay
2) TS 77-2 -
Exhaust Manifold Damper
3) TS 77-4 -
1948-1954 cylinder head Temp. Elements
4) TS 77-5 -
Oil Filter Element Conversion Chart
5) TS 77-7 -
Hudson Double Safe Brakes
6) TS 77-9 -
Clutch Flushing and Lubrication
7) TS 77-11 -
Aluminum Cylinder Heads
8) TS 77-12 -
Valve Adjustment, 1948-1956 Hudson
9) TS 77-13 -
1930 Essex Trim Specifications
10) TS 77-14 -
1932 Essex-Terraplane Service Hints
11) TS 77-15 -
1948-1956 Cylinder Head Gasket
12) TS 77-17 -
1948-1954 Spark Plug Recommendations
13) TS 77-18 -
1955-1956 "202" & "308" Engine Codes
14) TS 77-19 -
1928 Models General Information
15) TS 77-20 -
Fuel and Temperature Dash Unit Numbers
16) TS 77-21 -
1950-1954 Body Lacquers & Codes
17) TS 77-22 -
1948-1954 Front Seats (exc. Jet)
18) TS 78-1 -
1948-1954 Perimeter Frame
19) TS 78-3 -
1948-1954 Valve Adjustment (exc. Jet)
20) TS 78-4 -
1950-1953 Two Color Combinations and Codes
21) TS 78-5 -
Lubrication Schedule
23) TS 78-7 -
1942-1954 Speedometer Lubrication
26) TS 78-10 -
1940-1954 Headlight Ring & Houseing Interchange
27) TS 94-05 -
Compression Checks
29)
1952 Hudson Option List
1948-1957
Generator, distributor and other spec tables
1948 thru 1957
Hudson General Specifications: starting serial numbers and manufacturers
numbers for Generators, Starters
|
HUDSON
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS CHART 1950-1954 |
|
Hudson General Specs Click for printable
chart |
ID Hudson Hornet engine year of build
On 1954 and
earlier engines, the serial number is vertical on the front of right
(passenger) side of block below head. 1955 and 1956 engines have serial number
horizontal on left (driver) side. 1955 engines start with letter
"F" and numbers 1001 and upward, 1956 engines start with letter
"F" and number 8601 and upward. 1955 and 1956 engines also have
1/2" studs for head bolts. Earlier are 7/16" bolts.
Hudson Engine Heads: provided DJ Kava
The July,
1951 Hudson Service Merchandiser notes the following about 1951 heads:
"Beginning with the 1st production, an aluminum head of 7.2:1 compression
ratio was standard. The marking on top of cylinder head was H-145 Super
Power Dome-304632 (this is casting number). The optional cylinder head
was of cast iron, 6.7:1 ratio, with marking H-145 Power Dome-304630.
Later, a
cast iron cylinder head, 7.2: ratio, was used as standard-marking H-145 Super
Power Dome-305923, and a metal tag with the imprint USE PREMIUM FUEL. The
present and final change for standard head 7.2: ratio is of a new casting with
marking H-145 Super Power Dome Use Premium Fuel-305854."
I went over
this many years ago and the metal tag head was simply standard equipment.
HOW TO BUILD A "7X" ENGINE By Sloane F. McCauley
The following article was shared by LES P of California.....
Note: Sloan died a number of years
ago, but his talent and love for Hudsons lives on in this paper. He was
A.H.R.A. National Record Holder Formula 4, B/A and D/A racing a Hornet powered
Jet. The JET is enshrined in the Garlitts Racing Museum in Florida. The engine
shown in the following picture is equipped with a set of Fisch carbs, Clifford
head, separate intake manifold for each carb and the know how Sloane
shares in the following article.
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Most Hudsonites have heard of the magical 7X engine, but a great many of them do not really understand what it is nor what modifications have been performed to make it a true 7X In this article we will show you what is required to 7X your own 308 engine. Of course, it will be necessary to remove the engine from the car and completely disassemble it so at rebuild time would be a good time to 7X your engine. The basic differences in the 7X engine and the stock Twin-H power 308 are the larger valves, the wider and deeper relief area, the hot cam, the dual exhaust manifold, and the high compression head. The 7X engine has 2" intake valves and 1 11/16" exhaust valves. These valves can be easily installed in the stock 308 block. The valve pockets must be enlarged and then hand ground to achieve the venturi /effect under the valve seat which is so important to obtaining max flow through the valves. These oversize 7X valves are available from Jack Clifford as is the 311040-7X cam, which is reasonable in price and affords a good performance boost over the stocker. The 7X cam is set at .016 H and the timing specs are intake opens 14 degrees BTDC, intake closes 62 degrees ABDC, exhaust closes 56 degrees BBDC, exhaust opens 20 degrees ATDC Gross lift is .390. The 232 head is used on the 7X engine, giving a compression ratio of 8.7 to 9.2-1, depending on the variance in hand machine work in the relief area. Horsepower of the 7X engine is rated at 180 and torque is 305 ft-lbs. at 3,000 rpm. The 7X dual exhaust manifold helps in the back pressure-relieving department but these are becoming very scarce items. The stock exhaust manifold can be split and dual exhausts installed if a genuine 7X dual exhaust manifold cannot be obtained. The stock Twin-H power intake system is also used on the 7X engine. Of course, the heart of any good 7X engine is the relief area. This is the area of the block across which the mixture must flow from the valves to the cylinder. This area must be deepened and widened to achieve full 7X status. The first thing to do is get a head gasket and some machinist's dye. Paint the block surface with the dye and put the head gasket on the block. Now take a scriber and scribe a line, following the head gasket. This will show you what must be removed in order to widen the relief area all the way out to the head gasket. Also, the edge of the relief area should be radiused where it meets the head gasket to afford greater flow. The relief area should be deepened right down to the edge of the valve seat and cut all the way out toward the bore. The counter bore that the valve sits in will be eliminated and you will have a flat plane surface from the edge of the valve seat to the cylinder. The best way to cut the relief area is to use a milling machine such as a Bridgeport along with an end mill tool. This is the easiest way to remove the bulk of the material and then the block can be hand finished and smoothed. It is possible to grind the complete 7X relief by hand, but I would not recommend it. I believe you would be better off paying a machinist even at $10/hour because the work is not precision type work and can be roughed out quickly and easily on the machine and then hand finished and polished. I would estimate that I have nearly 100 hours work in the block in my race car, mostly hand finished This is only my second block in five years of racing this car, and is far superior to The first one, which was lost when a piston exploded and the rod wiped out the cylinder wall and went right out through the side of the block. Needless to say, if my present block were damaged beyond repair, I would cry a lot. The block is the critical part of a flathead racing engine. Unlike an OHV, in a flathead, all the power is produced by the breathing ability of the block in which the valves are located, as opposed to the easily replaceable head of an OHV engine. One thing to remember, however, is that just because an engine is advertised as being a 7X does not mean that it really is. It has become fashionable to call any mildly souped 308 a 7X engine. In reality, the 7X engine was a dealer-installed option (which means built by the factory racing team) the specs of which were set forth in a Hudson factor3~ technical bulletin dated 2/2/52. The true 7X engines were generally hand built for racing purposes and it is doubtful that many of these original 7X engines are still around. A high altitude engine was produced by the factory, which included some 7X parts, such as the oversize valves, 232 head, and hot cam, but were not true 7X's in that the relief area was not deeply machined and hand finished. The later model '55 and '56 blocks have deeper stock relief areas than the earlier blocks which make them more desirable for a stock engine, but if the relief area is to be machined to 7X specs, it makes no difference which block you use. The second-generation 7X engines, such as mine, are also hand-built units utilizing Clifford parts. Don't let anyone pawn an engine off on you as being a 7X without First pulling the head and checking for sure, as a tremendous amount of hand preparation goes into creating a genuine 7X engine. Well I hope this gives everyone a general idea of what a 7X engine really is, and if you are planning on rebuilding that tired old 308 anytime soon, l'd definitely recommend 7X mods as the performance increase per dollar spent is fantastic. Now we will discuss how to 7X your block and we will delve further into proper block preparation as applied to a racing engine.
Correct block preparation is a very exacting science, the details of which are often overlooked by the amateur hot rodder. The major rule in block preparation is "cleanliness is next to Godliness." I assembly my engines in hospital like surroundings, and if you want your engine to last, I'd advise you to do the same. The first thing to do with an old block after disassembly is to have it placed in a hot caustic solvent tank to clean out the din and sludge The cam bearings must be installed after caustic cleaning because the vat would devour them for its dinner. The block should be milled about .020 to insure a straight and level deck. The top edge of the cylinder bore should then be chamfered in order that the rings will go in easily without breaking. Many hot rodders advocate align boring the main saddles of the block but I have found this to be unnecessary on the old Hudson blocks. The Hudson engine was a precision product and all tolerances were very closely held. Besides, align boring is a very difficult operation which requires extremely expensive equipment to perform correctly. Some of the cheaper align boring rigs are nothing but junk, and they can really butcher a block.
The lifter bores should be smoothed and polished
with fine emery cloth. On other engines, a brake cylinder hone can be used for
this job, but the Hudson lifter bores are too narrow. The head boltholes in the
block should be slightly chamfered at the top of the block surface to allow for
any distortion caused when the head bolts or studs are torqued down. .. The
block should be honed on a Sunnen CK-10 honing machine. The old hand-held
drill-operated corncob hone is junk and can never deliver a professional ring
seal. For best results, a honing jig should be made from an old head, which can
be torqued down, on the block to distort the cylinders. The hone can then be
passed through the holes cut in the old head and hone the block with it
distorted as it would be with a real head installed. Cylinder wall distortion
can and will run as high as .003 to .004 so this is the only way to get a
topnotch professional quality ring seal. The block should now be completely
de-burred and smoothed. All edges should be chamfered, the rough spots in the
ports should be smoothed out, and any loose casting slag should be ground away.
The inside of the Hudson blocks is already painted orange with special paint
which is good, in that tiny nicks and cracks are sealed and the oil can flow
back to the pan easier. The main oil gallery is plugged with welch plugs at
each end of the block. When oil pressure is raised above 50 p.s.i., these plugs
tend to go away, so the fix is to thread the oil gallery front and rear and
install pipe plugs. This prevents any chance for oil leakage, and the pipe
plugs can be easily removed for cleaning at rebuild time. Another little tip I
can pass along to you is that the front main bearing cap should have another
oil return hole drilled in it to allow for greater flow of oil from the timing
cover back into the pan. I experienced an oil buildup problem in this area
early this year due to increased oil pressure, which was causing the front
timing, cover seal to leak. After we drilled the second oil return hole on the
other side of the main cap, we had no more problems. Now we come to the most
important part of block preparation: cleaning. Simply vat cleaning the block is
not good enough. The best way to really clean a block is to take it to the
25-cent car wash and soap the hell out of it. Stick the sprayer in all the oil
gallery holes and blow detergent through them until the flow is clean. Also
clean the entire block inside and out. Splurge and spend a couple of bucks
here, as it will pay off in the long run. The next step is to get some small
bristle brushes, such as gun cleaning brushes, and run them in and out of all
the oil passages in the block and crank, using soapy water as a cleaning
solvent. You'd be surprised how much dirt you can still get out of the block
with these brushes, even after it has been cleaned in a vat and soaped at the
25-cent car wash. You will need to use an extension in order to pass the brush
through the main oil gallery, which runs the length of the block. Brush all the
oil galleries until they come clean, then rinse off the block and crank. You
are now ready for assembly. I do not have the space to elaborate on proper
assembly methods, as this article deals with block preparation. However, the
main thing to remember is "keep it clean". This does not mean a
disorganized, hurried assembly on a dirty garage floor. I like to assemble my
engines on a pair of sawhorses upon which the block can be placed. This gets
the engine off the ground and can easily be wrapped up in cellophane after
assembly is completed to protect from dirt. Take your time in assembling the
engine. Be sure all the parts are operating room clean and wash your hands
often
Don't get in a big hurry, and above all -
THINK!
Interchangeable
Hudson Engine Parts: Alex Burr – Has
created a Tech Bulletin that captures Sloan’s knowledge of interchangeable Hudson engine parts.
General Information:
Kenneth
Ufheil (Apr 14 1998 5:38AM) response to Dave H. on HUDSON CLUB CHAT PAGE
I wouldn't use 3 ring pistons on a street driven car if I wanted low oil consumption. The 4-ring piston has better oil control. The only pistons available cheaper would require a huge overbore ( 1/8''), which is not desirable for street and highway driven car ( too much heat buildup due to thinner cylinder walls). I don't recommend a 232 head for street either, as it will ping like crazy, and yes it does increase the possibility of blown head gasket. If your 308 block isn't already fitted with 1/2'' studs, they are added insurance against blown head gasket. The 262 head will work Ok, maybe some pinging under load at normal timing setting. Be sure the head hasn't been previously milled more than about .040''. the ones milled .060'' and beyond will not hold a gasket well. The gasket should work with the 2'' intake valve. You get the 7X valves from Clifford's Inline Performance Products. Clifford also offers the double roller chain and sprockets ready to bolt on for about $230. The Pontiac 389 chain is a roller chain. It will NOT fit on to the stock Hudson sprockets as the Hudson Sprockets are for a Morse type chain. You would have to machine the Pontiac sprockets to fit onto the Hudson cam and crank, Clifford already does this work with his double roller chain kit I previously mentioned. Why don't you give Clifford a call or drop him a line, he can tell you all about this stuff better than I anyway. Yeah, it's not cheap to properly rebuild a Hudson engine. But the money spent on a good rebuild with good parts is well spent. I have seen several Hudson owners try to cut corners and then their ''rebuilt'' engine was reduced to ''junk'' in short order
Tips for Trouble shooting compression problems – (Park W. July 2004 – Hudson Chat) Try a pressure test to see exactly where the compression is leaking: Take the plugs out, and put the one to be tested near top dead center on the compression stroke (just have the dist. rotor pointing to that cylinder's position on the cap). Then apply an air hose with a rubber tipped nozzle and about 40 psi pressure to the spark plug hole and listen for air leakage. You'll hear it out the adjacent cylinder spark plug hole (head gasket sealing problem), out the breather pipe (ring blow-by), through the carburetor throat (intake valve) or out the exhaust (exhaust valve). If the engine's cold, you'll usually get a little blow-by into the crankcase, audible at the breather ... to see how that normal leakage sounds, do the test on a good cylinder first.
Optimizing your timing to the operating altitude
From the
Hudson Chat Page: Brad Gentner '70 Uncut and Bone Stock
Someone also asked about this tonight, but I deleted it before I thought to respond. I will describe how I timed my engine w/ a vacuum gauge. First, attach vacuum gauge to a source of manifold vacuum. With engine at operating temperature, idle set to specs. and vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged, advance timing by rotating distributor clockwise. Your vacuum reading should increase. You'll get to a point where further timing advances have no effect on vacuum reading. This is the timing that develops max. Vacuum. Now retard the timing until the gauge reads 1/2 in. Hg. lower than this max. level. Tighten down Distributors hold down, and, voila, this should be the optimal timing for your altitude.
NEW OLD REPLACEMENT STOCK PARTS TO REBUILD YOUR ENGINE:
Dale Cooper : has bought out Bob Rovengo's inventory of
engine gaskets, seals and engine rebuild parts for a lot of engines 1914 to
1957. All gaskets are either new or N.O.S., all cork and
paper gaskets are new manufacture. He has bearings, valves guides
and springs, timing components, pistons and rings (some original pinned
piston rings) , lifters, oil pumps & kits, thrust washers and crank
spacers for vibration damper 1931-56 6 and 1934-52 8. For snail mailed
copy of catalog or order Dale Cooper, 7444 Vine and Paddock, Cincinnati,
OH 45216-1712 or call (513) 821-6200 On-line catalog is viewable
online at http://www.hudsonmotorcarco.com
Kanter Auto Parts: Hudson Engine
overhaul components and gaskets
Egge
Machine Company-The world's
source for obsolete and hard to find engine parts. Stock to Hot-Rod, 1900's
through the 70's. All Makes - All Models. Complete inventory of pistons, rings,
bearings, gaskets, valve-train and timing components. Engine kits, Babbitt
bearing service, and wheel cylinder and pump rebuilding. Retail and wholesale.
Egge Machine Company, 11707 Slauson Avenue, Santa Fe Springs, CA
90670 310-945-3419 Catalog $2.00
Engine Overhaul and rebuilds by a HUDSON Mechanic - Contact Al Saffrahn @ 520-568-2911
Dany Spring - Racing Hudsons Dany builds Hudsons for street and strip use. Hot Rod Magazine has done a series of articles on his cars and modifications made to the engines and transmissions. Check these web connects for information.
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HUDSON ENGINE High Performance Modifications: Steve
F. a veteran machinist with Indianapolis and NASCAR racing is now offering Hudson
engine and transmission upgrades. Steve says ...his modifications are taking
the Hudson engine to the next performance level. The creator of the new
"8X" engine and many new speed parts including headers, dry clutch
conversions and electronic ignitions. Check his web site at http://www.uncommonengineering.com
HUDSON
ROLLER CHAIN-
1948-56 6 cylinder Hudson Timing chains. The new True Roller timing chains are avail.
Includes new chain, gears, adaptor, new front seal, new timing cover gasket,
and new front sleeve. Cost $185.00 post paid. Randy Maas 220 Glendale St.
P.O. Box 589 Manito, Illinois. 61546 Randy
Maas
Inliners Club: Information for the inline engine enthusiast.
TWIN H CARB ADJUSTMENT (Click on the title to see a Twin H Linkage diagram)
The key to a proper adjustment of a Twin H set up depends on several factors. The most important of which is that the system does not leak vacuum. This means the intake manifold is not leaking nor is the individual carburetors. A quick test to determine if the engine intake or carburetors are leaking can be performed with a vacuum gauge. Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum intake port on the intake manifold. The correct reading for a properly running Twin H car at seal level will be approximately 18 -22 inches of vacuum. A complete vacuum check of the engine should be completed and all other discrepancies corrected PRIOR to adjusting the carburetors. (A MOTORS or similar manual will provide you with pictorial and written explanation of how to run a vacuum check and interrupt your findings)
Assuming the vacuum check is complete you are ready to adjust the TWIN H carb set up.
To complete the adjustments shown in the
mechanical procedures manual you will need a UNISYNC carburetor balance
tool. Using the UNISYNC will the be the topic of a future update to this
site...
Ken Cates
July 2000
HEAD GASKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
PREPARATION
1. Clean Head and Block free from all carbon and rust with a medium grit emery paper. Note: Do not get the emery grit into the cylinders.
2. Run a tap through the head bolt threads in the block to remove all rust and thread sealant.
3. Clean block and head with white gas or
lacquer thinner to remove any dirt and grease before painting with aluminum
paint.
(Editor’s note: this is an
individual preference... I have used Copper Cote (trade name gasket sealant)
with good success)
4. Clean head bolt threads free from all
rust and sealant with wire brush on a bench grinder.
NOTE: as expensive as engine
maintenance has become, seriously consider replacing the head bolts with the
appropriate grade and size replacement bolt and reserve the removed bolts for
spares or other use.
ASSEMBLY
1. Paint the head gasket (both sides) block and head with aluminum paint. (Use hi-temperature boiler paint if possible) See note above on Copper Cote. Assemble while paint is still tacky.
2. Coat the threads of the head bolts with non-hardening permatex gasket sealant.
3. Lubricate the surface under the bolt heads with Bendix lube or lithium grease to reduce torque friction.
4. Torque the head bolts down to 60 foot pounds, then torque them to 80 pounds for a 7/16-inch bolt. (Note Bernie Segfried - Hudson engine designer and mechanic once stated to the editor this torque factor was off by 10 pounds and the final figure should be 90 pounds for good bolts) The torque sequence should be in 10-pound increments. For engines equipped with 1/2-inch bolts or studs the torque factored is 95 pounds, using 5-pound increment factors when going from 80 to 95 pounds.
TORQUE SEQUENCE
17-11-5-2-8-14-20
16-10-4-1-7-13-19
18-12-6-3-9-15-21
5. Start and warm the engine for 5-10 minutes. Stop the engine and re-torque the engine using the same procedure from step 4.
6. Do not use more than 1/2 throttle until the engine has been re-torqued three (3) times. Then check the head torque once a week until the gasket has been fully compressed... no change in torque detected.
NOTES:
1. Torque engines with aluminum heads only when the engine is cold after the first warm-up tightening. Cast Iron heads should be tightened only when the engine is warm.
2. All engines using studs instead of head bolts should chamfer the bolt holes 1/16 X 45 degrees on each bolt in the head.
3. CAUTION always match the head gasket to the engine block
and head. Head gaskets are made for various engine sizes and head bolt sizes.
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TIMING CHAIN CHECK and INSTALLATION Submitted by Ken Cates sanjuana@aol.com Gear
indexing and Timing chain relationships |
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FRONT CRANK SEAL
LEAK REPAIR
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SOME TIPS TO TRY WHEN THAT SUPER SIX or HORNET DECIDES NOT TO START - Collected from HUDSON CHAT and Help requests...
R.V.Blake provides a systematic set of checks to assist a Hudson owner diagnose and solve a starting problem with a Hornet engine
Now that we have established that the engine will crank freely, let's be sure of timing, first the valve timing, then the ignition. If the crank gear, timing chain and cam gear were not disturbed during your rebuild, then the valve timing should be O.K. any of those were apart, it's time to double check their relationships. The ignition timing would possibly be affected if you had the distributor out while doing the re-ring job. If not, there's really no reason for the ignition timing to be so far off that she won't fire, but check it as follows: With the plugs out, crank the motor while you keep a finger over the first plug hole. When you have compression, the air will rush past your finger. That should be when the timing mark shows in the flywheel peephole. It should also correspond to the rotor being just about under the #1 plug post on the cap. The fact that you have a weak spark sounds like either a bad coil or condenser, or even points really out of adjustment. Swap in another coil if you've got it, but remember the set up the positive and negative correctly (which is to say 'wrong') for the positive ground system. It's possible the coil wires got reversed if apart. Funny thing with my total rebuild, using all new ignition parts too, the d--- thing wouldn't start and it puzzled me for days. The new condenser was NG right out of the box. The old condenser went back it and she ran fine. Remember compression will probably not be peak until the rings re-set. I always start the balky ones with a 12-volt battery (set up with positive ground) and never have hurt the starters or any electrics. Once it starts, switch to 6 volts. You can use a jumper pack to get the same results, or just jump off a newer car. It sounds like an ignition problem to me from this distance, so just go through each item systematically and you'll have a running car again!
He continues:
Just one more area which you may look at.
Is the distributor timed correctly? In relationship with the firing order?
A quick guide find compression stroke set flywheel on marker at top dead
center. (You can have top dead center on exhaust stroke. So be sure it is
compression stroke) At this point rotor button should be pointing to no 1 lead
on cap. If this is all correct. Turn on ignition loosen distributor and rotate
distributor by hand in opposite direction of shaft rotation if all is correct
there will be a discharge of current at the points at this position lock
distributor if all is working it should start at that setting any further
adjustment to timing can be done later. Some cars can be for what appears there
is no apparent reason, very hard to start even when all is OK if this fails try
12 Volts or try starting whilst being towed. Good Luck.
The problem turned out to be a dragging
starter that was found when 12 Volts was put to the starter... so it pays to
look closely at the things we least expect to be at fault. NOTE ALL THE DIFFERENT TESTS that were recommended ... take the time to do all
the tests thoroughly and REPAIR the items found
defective... after all
the last Hudson STEPDOWN was built over 46 YEARS AGO!
Red Engine Paint for Hudson Engines: (Lew M
July 2004) Duplicolor Ford Red Number DE1605 Engine Enamel is the correct color
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REMOVING EXCESS CLEARANCE FROM CENTER POINT STEERING
Submitted by Ken Cates sanjuana@aol.com Repair can be pre formed on the car, but
it is best to remove and inspect unit prior to repair. After taking proper
precaution to jack and secure your automobile, remove the nut from the center
point steering shaft. Remove the hard washer that the steering rides on. Use
this washer as a pattern and trace its inside diameter and outside diameters
onto a coffee can lid. Cut your spacer from the can lid. Reassemble the
center point steering unit with the spacer installed on the NON PRESSURE side
of the hard washer. If done properly the center point steering unit should be
as tight as new. Hudson Center Point Steering Repair Via email from: Hugh Odom, Summerville, SC, 53 HH Club Coupe Jack Clifford sells a fine replacement center steering pin for Stepdown Hudsons that can be used to replace your old pin if it's worn out. Jack's steering pin is machined from high-grade steel, which is very tough and probably more immune to breakage than the stock item. HOWEVER, the Clifford pin is not surface hardened like the original pin. If you do a lot of high effort, slow speed turning (like squeezing your Hudson into a tight garage for instance) the needle bearings will gall the shaft and cause excess wear. The needle bearing manufacturer's engineering data calls for a very high surface hardness for shafts to be used with them. After I went to the expense to replace my old center pin only to have it wear excessively after ~6 months service, I did a little research and found this out. The best method I could find for avoiding it was to substitute bronze bushings for the original needle bearings. The softer bronze wears satisfactorily and won't gall the center pin. I can detect no increase in steering effort, so that's not a problem either. I was able to obtain correctly sized bronze bushings from a local bearing supplier very cheaply (< $5.00 for both bushings) so it's a cheap fix. If you have an original unworn Hudson
shaft, the needle bearings are fine, and they'll probably work fine with
Clifford's shaft as long as you don't have to crank the wheel hard on a
regular basis. |
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STATIC TIMING OF A STEPDOWN ENGINE Note: This procedure requires a correctly installed flywheel. 1. Pull the plugs to take compression off motor. 2. Turn the engine by hand until the UDC 1-6 appears on the flywheel in the area where the timing pointed in installed on the engine. (Opening above the starter). 3. Clean and paint this area as it will be necessary to see to properly time your engine. 4. TOP DEAD CENTER is the next long line as the motor is turned in the normal direction of rotation. (Rotation is counter clockwise looking at the water pump on the engine). Each line represents approximately 2.8 degrees of advance in timing. For best performance of a stock engine 2 marks or ~6degrees advance is recommended. 5. When using a timing light to time your HUDSON, lay the light on top of the starter. If you don't use this method the sight angle will cause you to set time timing incorrectly. Peering over the top of the radiator will allow you to view the timing light flashing on the flywheel. |
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Repairing Center bearing cushions - severe use tip Passed on from Bernie Siegfried This procedure was used by Bernie to prepare HUDSON Stock cars and for severe use and drag racing applications. He once told me cars prepared with these cushion adapters NEVER experienced a failure. |
Electric fuel pumps to assist mechanical to prevent vapor lock
The following information was shared via email - without name
Recently in the WTN magazine I saw an article on installing an electric fuel pump I though was way too complicated, so to make it simple I can say I have had an electric pump on my 1954 Hornet for over fifteen years, You can get this very small but powerful pump from J.C.Whitney for thirty five dollars. All you have to do is splice in to the gas line under the frame at the half way point frt. to rear attach the unit to the frame, and run your electric line up under the dash to an on and off switch
I start the car then turn it off after it
runs a few minutes, or when you are running your air conditioner to prevent
vapor lock it has worked for me for fifteen years without fail
SPACERS on Conventional Hudson Mechanical Fuel Pumps: Hudson used a variety of fuel pumps to complete the fuel delivery to the various carburetion systems used. This variety and the need to use existing non-special parts created parts interfaces, which required the pumps to be "adapted" to the particular use. Adaptation takes the form of a gasket stack which spaces the fuel pump out or away from the block. These gasket stacks are usually misunderstood when the new Hudson owner is confronted with a fuel pump failure. If the owner is lucky they already know of the existing HETers who provide rebuilt pumps or kits to fix the failed pump. When the pump arrives it usually comes with a single fiber gasket, which can easily be MISTAKEN as the ONLY gasket needed to reinstall the new pump.
The owner can determine if the gasket stack is needed by a careful measurement of the fuel pump drive arm length. If it is the same as the length of the arm on the failed pump and a gasket stack was part of that installation... REPLACE THE GASKET STACK with the new pump. If the arm is about 1/2 inch shorter then the stack is not needed.
What is this all about?
The camshaft of the engine is used to drive the fuel pump. If the arm is improperly spaced it will in fact "go past" the cam (it is 1/2 inch too long/ the cam shaft eccentric is not engaged and the cam will push a minimum stroke on the fuel pump arm Vis a vis the end. Improper installations will result in weak fuel pump pressures and POOR engine performance.
If you do not have a gasket stack... all is not gloomy... you can make the spacer from suitable gaskets or if you take your fuel pump to a machine shop they can make a metal spacer. To install a metal spacer adds gaskets to each side and bolt on the pump. Careful measurements will keep your fuel pump happy, DO NOT THROW THOSE SPACER GASKETS AWAY!
What is that ?? More Fuel Pump knowledge: (Park W July 2004)
Question from Silverone: Can anyone tell me what
the purpose is of the little domed do hickey that stands vertically at the fuel
outlet port on a two-stage pump for a '53 Hornet? Its about maybe an inch and a
half high, and maybe 3/4 inch in diameter, and appears to be screwed into the housing
in such a way as to having access to the pressurized fuel being sent to the
carburetors. The reason I ask is because I ordered a rebuilt pump, and the one
I received doesn’t have this thing on it like my other two cars do. There is
just a blind hole there in new pump, not deep enough to penetrate the fuel
outlet port, and no threads in the hole either. Could that thing be something
like an accumulator (like in a motor home water system)? Do I need to drill out
the hole and thread it to accept one of these, or just ignore it and install
the pump as is?
Park Response: Yes, it IS a small accumulator, intended to dampen
the pressure pulses somewhat. All's well without it.
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General Tips and Information 1. Tighten the harmonic balancer to 200 ft lb. of torque when reinstalling/ 2. Tighten head (7/16 inch diameter) bolts to 90-foot pounds torque when reinstalling. This applies to a clean lightly oiled bolt that is installed in a head bolthole that has had the treads chased with a proper sized tap. NOTE use the correct tightening sequence for your motor and re torque the head as recommended. Torque Procedure Hudson Engine Head stad@mb.sympatico.ca I am restoring an old 1949 Hudson, And I need to know how much torque needs to be on the head bolts. Ken Cates Email Reply- The correct torque figure is 60-65 foot pounds for the 7/16" 14 pitch bolts used in this engine ... make sure to follow the torque pattern. Chase the treads in the block and on each bolt then lubricate each threaded area to get an accurate torque on each fastener. Torque pattern for this engine is: Left top is the front left of engine and the torque sequences are factory manual recommendations.... SEQUENCE 17-11-5-2-8-14-20
Heat the engine to normal operating temps after it has been run ... the stop cool and re-torque.... repeat three times 3. High mileage Hudson engines have a ridge worn in the cylinders from the original equipment pinned rings. Overhaul of this engine can use the following techniques. Remove the ridge with a hone. Then remove the piston pins so that pin less rings can be used for the overhaul. (If you want to fill the hole in each piston, use a grinder to cut the pin into pieces to install in the piston) The holes left by the pin removal will quickly fill with carbon byproducts of combustion. If the pistons are undersized, they can be knurled to bring them back to appropriate size. Using these procedures will preclude the need to re bore the engine. 4. Bearings in a HUDSON engine can be shimmed with feather shim stock to take up excessive clearance. All bearings must be reinstalled in the same point as removed. Shimming against a untrue crank only. 5. Timing chain check- acceptable chain will have 1/4 to 1/2 inch of clearance when the chain is laid with the gear side down and the top ins pressed down. Worn chain the top and bottom sides touch. Fuel
Tank cleaning Bryan - n.ca. (May 18 1998 10:30AM) From the HET CHAT PAGE)
Fuel Tank Interchangeability –48-54 Hudsons: From the
Hudson Forums (July 2004) Has anybody put a '51 fuel tank in a '54? I know
there is some difference in the filler, but I don't know what it is or what
to do about it. Thanks.
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HET Standard & Overdrive Transmission Repair/Service: Al Saffrahn @ 520-568-2911
Drive shaft Carrier bearing: Hudson Chat from Dave s: 5/31/2001 order BR88507 from NAPA
Repair Information for OVERDRIVES From Dave Sollen's Site (Click back on Browser to Return here)
OD Solenoids and relays: From the Hudson Chat page... Park Note for '49 and earlier solenoids: these have separate terminals for the ''pull-in'' and the ''hold-in'' coils. When using these solenoids, install a jumper wire between terminals 4 and 6 on the solenoid, and make your connection from the switch to terminal 6. Also, I recommend having the switch operate a relay, so the relay carries the heavy load of the solenoid. Simply get a basic headlight relay (three terminals) and wire it according to instructions where it shows a wire to the headlights, run that to the solenoid #6 terminal. The wires from power source to switch, and from switch to relay, can be light gauge (16-18)
Jet O/D wiring From the Hudson Chat Page Dave s: 4/23/2000 I would guess it is same as any Stepdown harness, maybe a little shorter. Check with Al Saffrahn, as he may have all you need. Rhode Island has pattern for them, but doesn't supply plugs. I think plug from headlamp will work. If you need to borrow pattern, I have one that I am ready to install in my 49. Added K Cates: Motors Master wiring diagram Manual indicates the Jet to be the same as the Step-down wiring diagram.
Overdrive kick down switch- The Jeepsterman, 908-458-3966, part #649790, 13 + 5 shipping.
Turbo 350 & 400 Adapter plates - Put a New generation Hydro into a Hudson
Randy Maas// maasfh@ntslink.net (email address updated 2-2-99) (Apr 2 1998 4:59 PM) Turbo 350 & 400 Adapter plates have in stock turbo 350 & 400 adapter trans. plates. Use your flywheel, starter & Hudson bell housing. Adapter plates $125.00. Currently make plates for 700 R4\
Be Happy
Auto Trans. Parts 414 Stivers Road Hillsboro, OH 45133 800-416-2862
Mail order only. Owner operated by David &
Mona Crone. Dealing in automatic transmission rebuilding kits, external dry-up
kits, and hard parts. 1940-1965 NOS, NORS, good used, Dynaflow, Dual path,
Flightpitch, Hydramatic, Jetaway, Slim Jim, Roto 5, Powerglide, Turboglide,
Powerflite, Torqueflite, 3-Band, Ultramatic etc. Technical assistance, exploded
views, trouble shooting and repair literature. Orders for individual gaskets,
seals, etc. welcome. Free wholesale price list. We are open late for our West
Coast customers. Master Card, VISA, Discover, CODs accepted.
Automatic Transmission Parts 1946 to the mid 60'sDavid Edwards (56 Dale Street) P. O. Box 245 Needham Heights, MA 02194-0245 Phone: 1-781-449-2065 Evenings (6 PM to Midnight) Fax: 1-781-449-2065 Midnight to 6 PM
CLUTCH Service and Repair:
Clutch fluid formula: 12 ounces Ford type F automatic transmission fluid,
12 ounces power steering fluid, 12 ounces Hudsonite, 4 ounces kerosene.
Mix all components and use 6 ounces per refill in clutch. (this is a way
to extend the Hudsonite, you have on hand, and a less expensive way of
refilling, when several refills are required)
Flushing cork
clutches: make solution 4 parts
tri-chloral-ethane and one part acetone, available at drug stores. To
flush-drain clutch, refill with flushing solution, start engine, with
transmission in neutral, depress and release clutch about 100 times at various
engine speeds, drain and refill with clutch fluid mixture.
Clutch chatter solution
suggestions by Doug Wildrick
317-862-4171 drdoug@ameritech.net
The fingers on pressure plate must be correct height, from top of the cover,
with the new disc installed. This measurement should be no more
than 1.450, and the fingers should be set at .010-MAX ., variations between
them. If this isn't done correct, the clutch will probably
chatter. DON'T FORGET THE FLUID IN THE CLUTCH
Following items to
check for clutch chatter (other than pressure plate and clutch Disc)
* Check for cracked bell housing (usually
passenger side of bell housing starting at cross shaft)
* Input
shaft excessively worn at pilot bearing end.
* Input
shaft (twisted and/or excessively loose-front transmission bearing excessively
loose)
* Clutch
cross over shaft bushings (usually worn excessively)
* Alignment
of transmission with engine (bell housing bolt up surface free of dirt)
*
Back of block cleaned and dowels secured in place.
* Engine
and transmission mounts are good and solid. (not soft-very important for proper
clutch operation.
* Flywheel
resurfaced correctly and torqued at correct specs with clean flange on
crank and flywheel. Use soft setting Permatex and seal flywheel to crank flange
(thin coat)
*
Throw out bearing fork not worn (what did old throw ought bearing look
like-worn spots in bearing housing)
*
Engine tune (is it running properly)
Above items are not necessarily
in order-each vehicle is different!
Another
Suggestion for Flushing Hudson Cork Clutches From the Hudson Chat
Page R.K. Dittrich: 4/26/2000
Drain out the oil in the clutch put in 1/2 pint
of #1 Kerosene run Engine about a minute or two. Drain out the sludge and let
it drain overnight. If it was real sludge up repeat process then put in 1 can
Hudsonite or same amount of Dextron#2 not #3 the kerosene I learned from my
father who got it from a Hudson mechanic. Worked in our Hudson's from 1947 through
51 cars then dad bought a 55 with dry clutch.
Clutch Fluid Formulas and Suggestions: Note the HET CLUB STOCKS AND SELLS THE REAL THING email store @ HETClubStore@hotmail.com
Via the
Hudson Chat Bobby (Dec 9 1999 12:53PM) My Dad Had a Chemist at Fort Snelling Analyze Orig. Hudsonite Back in
the mid 50's. Dad was in the Service station business and wanted to make it
instead of paying the rising price. It can be reproduced by 8 parts 20 wt. -non
detergent oil with 2 parts K-1 Kerosene. ATF will work but is high detergent
and not as positive a grab, I know, I used to chain down the center bearing in
the drive shaft and drag race these monsters.
Installation and alignment of the parts of a rear end is a task, which we can do. Avoiding the pitfalls associated with the disassembly and reassembly is a benefit we all can use. One of the street rodder web masters understood the value of his experience and provided a Web site where Instructions for Installation of Gear sets in Ford 8" and 9" Carriers can be found. The information found there is comprehensive and very enlightening.
51 pinion seal Parts NAPA 47897 or National 47331 Park: 1/14/00 - 3:23:03 PM
Added 2-2-99 from, {Park W via email) Step-down Rear end specifics.... Thanks, PARK
1. On the Stepdown (non Spicer) differentials, the pinion bearing tightness' adjustment is controlled strictly by the 'front' shim pack. These are the smaller diameter shims, located between the bearing spacer and the front bearing. They're easily accessible when you pull the pinion shaft out of the housing. There's no 'crush washer' as described in the Ford discussion, and pinion nut torque is always 200 ft pounds as stated in the manual.
2. Adjustment of the pinion gear in and out relative to the ring gear is controlled by the rear shim pack, which is behind the rear bearing on the pinion shaft. You'll need a bearing puller (or someone who has one) to pull the bearing off the shaft in order to get at these shims. Remove shims to move the pinion away from the ring gear; add shims to move it closer (unlike some axles where you move shims from one end of the pinion assembly to the other).
The
following Tips for repairing 51 Rear End Axles
provided by
Aaron Del Monaco (Editor) CHI/MIL Chapter HET Club his email address is:
hudnut19@angelfire.com
February 7, 1999:
HUDSON SEMI-FLOATING TAPERED TYPE REAR END WELDED COVER TYPE
--If you cannot eliminate the endplay from the rear axle shaft, you must check the following:
1. Is the casting that holds the axle in secure?
2. Did you adjust the endplay with shims, which got between the casting and the backing plate?
3. Is the inner rear axle seal or bearing race damaged?
4. Remove the Axle shaft and check if the THRUST BUTTON is worn, if it is you will have to get a new one pressed into the Axle. This appears as though it is a solid piece of the axle shaft, but it is not, it is a pressed in button. It may be removed with a Tap.
ASSUMING ALL THESE THINGS ARE OK HERE'S WHAT YOU DO:
PICTURE AT: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/1684/Rearaxle.jpg
If none of the above mentioned things have contributed to the excessive end pay it is likely that you have a worn or destroyed THRUST SPACER BLOCK. This piece is located in the center of the differential and the axles contact it in the differential housing. Driving with excessive endplay will result in the axles banging on the Thrust Spacer Block till it's destroyed. The Trust Spacer Block is made of brass and if it comes off in your differential it will get ground up but will probably not destroy your differential gears. Once it has been destroyed, the absence of the Thrust Spacer Block will create excessive endplay and you cannot make up the endplay in the axle shafts with ANY amount of shims. Unless you can find a new Thrust Spacer Block, you will need a new differential. You must then: 1: Get the car high enough off the ground to work under the car safely and securely 2: Disassemble the axle shafts and rear seals (You will need to buy new inner and outer rear axle seals) 3. Disconnect the Universal joint and drive shaft. Unbolt the Differential and remove it 4. Make a gasket. Make sure the gear ratio is the same on you donor differential. Then bolt up your transplant differential making sure it is sealed.
CAUTION: Differential is heavy! You may want to use a transmission jack to raise it in place. Your Hudson must be high enough off the ground in order to get the differential under the car.
NOTE: If servicing the differential or the Thrust buttons, you may want to have a qualified machine shop do the assembly.
Replacing
Rear axle seals
From the
Hudson Chat Page Doug Wildrick (Dec 27 1999 7:43PM)
Try calling Napa, ask for rear axle seals for a VW rear outer seal. This seal comes as a kit. You can throw away the other pieces in the kit or save them for future use. This seal fits in the outer axle flange only, knock old seal out and PRESS new seal in with seal driving tools in the vise. At the same time you have the axle flange off for seal replacement, pull the axle and clean, inspect and repack the bearing. I have found that a new inner axle seal isn't needed. I just wipe the old grease out of the axle/bearing area, wipe some new in and slide the clean and repacked axle back in the housing. I have found the best removal tool is an old Hudson flywheel, simply slide it over the axle, with 4 bolt flange removed, put nut for the brake drum, with the washer on it and give it a few hits, like using a slide hammer, comes right out. E-mail me if I can be of further assistance.
The brake shoes you remove from your Hudson are
the best replacements you are likely to find. Take them to your favorite
parts house for a reline or re bond new linings. Your particular parts company may not have a
supplier who is capable of doing this type of work. If so you might try
the following business.... CALL
BEFORE sending any parts.
Brake and Clutch Supply, 407 South
8th Street Waco, Texas 76701 , Phone 254-752-4307
Pull Rear Drums without a Puller! Rear wheel hub removal been through this before guys, looks like good topic for the magazine,. What I did was take an old axle out of a scrap Chrysler, rear end,(same bolt pattern)Knock out the studs, Buy 5 bolts 3-4 inches long that would fit in the Hudson bolt holes. Put the old axle up to the hub, install bolts and tighen,OFF COMES THE HUB !!!! no special tools no damage to drum.... Hudson Chat Gord Souter(Canada): 11/12/2000
Brake repair recommendation: RE: Step-down Brake shoes - The linings need to be `arced` to a specific size that corresponds to the drum they will be used with. Take the drums and linings to any shop that does brakes and they will `mike` (for micrometer) your drums and arc the linings to match. By the way, the angle they arc the linings to is a smaller diameter than the drums, to where the center of each lining should make contact to the drum first. Once the shop arcs your linings, don’t mix them with another drum, unless they both were the same diameter by chance. Having your drums `mic'ed` like this will also let you know whether they have enough `meat` left on them to properly dissipate the heat created from the friction of braking. With most brands of cars, .060 over is as much as you should go, safely. Hudson Chat Peter Smith: 7/10/2001 - 1/1/1900 1:01:37 PM
Kanter Obsolete Auto Parts - Takes you direct to the brake parts area of catalog
Wheel cylinder number NAPA rear numbers right - 17509, left 17510. Front Wagner # F71214 or same as 48-60 ford truck 1 1/8'' diameter Bendix # 3128-left, 3129-Right. If you can't get them local, call Dave Kostansek. Dave s: 2/17/00 - 9:29:35 AM
Wheel Cylinder numbers : Wagner-Lockheed numbers: for 1 1/8`` cylinders 3128 and 3129 (left and right); 1 1/16`` cylinders 3461, 3462. Park W.: 5/29/2001
Numbers, for master cylinder: For master cylinder, try NAPA United #3081, Raybestos #17798, Delco #174128....Dave s.sw pa (Oct. 27 1998 7:02AM)
Wagner Lockheed #F2796
Master cylinder Fits
1947-64 Studebaker, 1947-59 Willys, 1949-50 Frazer, 1951-54 Henry J, 1958
Packard, 1953-55
Hudson,
1955-57 Nash, and 1950-60 Rambler...Via email
carefully compares the interchange part with your original part before use.
Interchange information: The information
that follows is dated. It is provided as a starting point for someone who
has no other starting point.
1948 -1954 Hudson Master Cylinder- WITHOUT POWER BRAKES Napa/United # 3081
1948 -1954 Hudson Master Cylinder Repair Kit - WITHOUT POWER BRAKES Napa/United # 138
1951 -1954 Hudson Front Brake Shoes - Raybsetos #263
1951 -1954 Hudson Rear Brake Shoes - - Raybsetos # RR-55
1948 -1954 Hudson Front Brake Shoes - 11" X 1 3/4" - Napa Rayloc# RS-55
1948 -1954 Hudson Rear Brake Shoes - 11" X 1 3/4" - Napa Rayloc# RS-55
1948 -1954 Hudson Front Brake Shoes - 11" X 21/4" - Napa Rayloc # RS-18
1952 - 1954 Rear Brake Hose - Wagner #24404
1952 - 1954 Rear Brake Hose - Napa/United 11149
1948 - 1954 Front Brake Hose - EIS SP-1418 or Napa/United 10303
1951-1954 Wheel Cylinder Repair kits - Front Raybsetos WK-13
1951-1954 Wheel Cylinder Repair kits - Rear Raybsetos WK-36
Wagner/Lockheed Number for rear wheel cylinders for 1948 -54 Step-downs FD-2447
Bendix Numbers for wheel cylinders for Step-downs 1 1/8-inch cylinders
3128 ( left) ---- 3129 (right)
Bendix Numbers for wheel cylinders for Step-downs 1 1/16-inch cylinders
3461( left) ---- 3462 (right)
EIS Numbers for wheel cylinders for 1952-1954 Pacemaker / Wasp Step-downs 1 1/16 inch cylinders
9090 and 9091 ( same as 65-68 IHC Model 1100)
Disc Brake Conversions:
31/08/2003: Contact Bill Labud, 38049 Rolling Acres Rd., Lady Lake, FL 32159 Ph: 352-753-7229. He has it perfected! Uses stock Hudson Master Cylinder, Easily reversible back to drum brakes
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CAR VISOR |
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Voltage Regulators NAPA Part No's. VR25 for GDZ generator VR27 for GGW generator RO: 6/7/2001
Re. 6 volt to 12 volt change- Dash Instrument - 51 and up have constant voltage regulator, that keeps voltage to gauges below 8 volts. Change bulbs for oil/gen.From Dave S....Via HET Chat page....
HUDSON
GAUGE REPAIR --Hudson Gauge
repair I use John Wolfe & Co. in Willoughby , Ohio. You can call me for the
phone #. My daytime # is 516-589-7831Via Email from Charles S
Converting Hudson Electrical Components from 6 to 12VDC: From Park Waldrop: For anyone who needs 12v field coils wound, or for any applications
where replacement coils aren't available, have the local starter/generator shop
contact: Ennis Automotive, Inc., 2400 N. Preston St., Ennis, TX 75119-0772,
(972) 878-3896
HUDSON Starters ( 6 -12 Volt Change Tip) Have done several conversions to 12 Volts, and had
no problem with the 6-volt starter but did keep breaking the notched thrust
washer on the Bendix occasionally. To correct this I machined a washer double
thick. Of course you always rebuilt the starter with new brushes and bushings if
needed. The 56-57 308 had 12 volt starters. R. Dittrich March 2000 -
Converting
from 6-12 Volts
Each owner will decide for himself or herself
if they will retain the 6-volt system or change to a 12-volt system for the
cars electrical system. The easiest method of converting the car to 12 volts is
the installation of a single wire GM alternator. The specific actions of
accomplishing that task are not available to me at this time... but I have
added several sites where other people have converted from an original 6-volt
system to 12 Volts . These web sites are comprehensive and will allow you to
determine how the task can be completed on a HUDSON. Once I get the time
to do the diagrams and write the prose I will post a HUDSON specific update
document.
Volts By Dick Cashion: (Click back on Browser to Return here)
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Mechanical Installation 12 Volt GM Single wire Alternator Hudson Step-down Installation of a General Motors (GM) 12 Volt single wire self regulated alternator into a Hudson Step-down will require the fabrication of brackets to mount the unit. The manufacture and installation becomes a "bolt in experience" using the prefabricated brackets shown
Mounting Bracket
installation is accomplished by removal of two head bolts and one water
pump-mounting bolt. The alternator is installed on the bracket with bolts
and the tensioning bracket (not shown – similar to stock generator tension
arm but longer) is installed for proper belt tension adjustment. |
GM Alternator installed on a 52 Hornet Motor
Brackets are fabricated to order by Ken Ufheil of Plano Texas.
Converting a 6 Volt Jeep to 12-Volt by Eric Lawson elawson@a.crl.com
The troubles times Alternator explanation page will provide you with details of how charging systems - alternators work and how to select the right one for your application.
Alternator Swap - or - I can't find a simple set of instructions to convert from the tired old generator to an alternator!!
FRAME REPAIR:
Repair of a Hudson unit body frame is a task that requires proper preparation and a through knowledge of metal repair and a STEPDOWN frame specification chart. I have received several inquires asking what to do in the case of a badly rusted frame. Although frustrating to find out your "Pride and Joy" has terminal problems, it is imperative to find a solution, which will return the frame to the condition it, was when it left the factory. Some are talented enough to cut away the failed sections make patterns, which are used to make repair parts, and make the repairs. (Paul S. is a perfect example of this type of Hudsonite. He took a badly rusted Hudson Convertible and has totally restored the frame and body) for the less capable but enthusiastic Hudson owner, a body transplant maybe the best route. Even though you might not see the available cars, there are hundreds of Hudson step-downs, which will NEVER be restored. Some of these cars are rust free western cars, which languish in the back yards or along the byways of America. Contact folks like Al Saffrahn who lives in the one of the driest parts of the USA, the AZ desert. Resurrect your Hudson in the body of another... or use that car as the basis for a new restoration. Your current dream machine maybe just the ticket to put it all together. But, the real point is two fold: You are reading this because you are a Hudson enthusiast, and probably have a car with rust problems. Two, putting your money into a car that will not be safe when you can rectify that problem readily may end up causing you to give up your quest to put yourself behind the wheel of one of AMERICAS Finest Cars.
How to restore the
frame of your Hudson – Pictorial example of Hudson frame and
floor repair.
Repairing the failed metal of a Step-down frame will require selection of a welding method that will assure the completed repairs meet the original specifications. A review of two welding techniques; TIG and MIG will assist any would be Step-down frame repairperson.
Dennis'
49 Conv. Restoration Page: A website that will take you through the restoration
of a 1949 Hudson Commodore 8 convertible.
Thanks to Ray Baker for this
SUPER - HOW TO DO IT TIP!
How to make door bottom moldings for Hudson Stepdowns - Ray Barker 2004
AUTO BODY PAGE - Links to other sites on the web devoted to auto body restoration
Collector Car Restoration Videos Save Time, Money and Prevent Costly Mistakes with this valuable video series! Online - OVER 8 HOURS OF STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO INSTRUCTION
Trim Retainers- K-GAP Phone and Fax 714-523-0403 Click Name for email.
Reproduction Windshields: LO-CAN GLASS INTL. WOBURN, MA (800)345-9595 (781) 935-2500
Other Potential Hudson Glass Sources:
Last Fall Phillips Classic Auto Glass in Poplar Bluff,
Arkansas had a NOS '54 tinted windshield along with some Jet windshields and
NOS split windshields. He may also have '54 NORS by now. Ask for Vick at
1-573-785-1927, FAX 1-573-776-6148 or E-mail at www.classicglass@semo.net. There
are two warehouses crammed full of glass, much of it NOS. (From: 51 Club
coupe July 2004)
Auto
City Classic Glass: We stock 1000's of windshields from the mid 1940's
through
the 1970's for classic cars and trucks, as well as vent glass, door glass,
quarter glass, back glasses and tailgate glasses. All makes and models. We
offer several tints, the original clear, original EZ-eye green
tint and a custom smoked gray. Our custom smoked gray looks great on street
rods. This of course was not an original option, but when doing a custom it's a
nice option to have.
E-mail: sales@autocityclassic.com or call
us at 800-828-2212. (From: 54HSWH July 2004)
At Bob's
Classic Auto Glass we carry a complete inventory of windows, rubber and
associated parts for cars and trucks from 1920-1960. We have been in business
since 1984. All glass is cut from original factory patterns at our shop. An
online shop selling on eBay. (From K Cates July 2004)
NOS Hudson Sheet Metal Parts: Barry Hackney -17819 Frankton Way, Houston Texas, 281-821-5534.
Hudson Stepdown Sheet Metal all years(and
most other parts too): Falk Hudsons –(308)
478-5559 Check in with the Falks in Wilcox Nebraska. Ron and Melvin and their
Dad are first class lifelong Hudsonites who are now in the Hudson parts
business...
Rust Repair – Hudson Stepdown Rear fenders:
From the Hudson Forum (JULY 2004) my dad is
doing bodywork on his 1952 Hollywood and the rear quarter's are both rusted out
at the bottom. I want to know if anyone might have some or know of good
replacements. As far as I know none of the members in Kansas have any. Thanks
for any help
Reponses:
Potential for finding replacement fenders For Sale is diminishing everyday,
unless your Dad's fenders are really bad I would suggest he have them repaired.
The bottom section of all 48-53 Hudson fenders is essentially flat metal. If
the fender is off it can be worked from the back and front. Rust removal and
after repair rust treatment can be done. If the task is beyond your home
capability take the fender to body shops around town to get quotes for repair.
Make sure the person offering to repair is using a tig or mig welder Vis a Vis
gas. To keep warping to a minimum the high intensity low heat welding methods
are preferred. (Note: with care rusted areas of a 1954 Hudson fender can be
cut out with and appropriate sheet metal patch panels fabricated to repair
those fenders too)
DOOR ADJUSTING From the
Internet cegerma@ibm.net
This may seem so simple but before I learned
of this I broke the glass in my door by slamming it; Tip came from KGAP.
Make sure striker plate is in proper position and parallel to the doorjamb. Put
plenty of WD40 on the mechanism in the door. Put some lithium grease on the
striker plate; Door should now click close. It does for me. No more broken
windows
BRIGHT WORKS - Auto Chrome and Stainless polishing products
RESTORATION SPECIALTY TOOLS & PRODUCTS : Eastwood Company
BUMPER
BOLTS: The
small oval bumper bolts
are available from Restoration Specialists 1-814-467-9842 or larger headed ones
Bumper Boyz at 1-800-815-9009 ( from the Hudson Chat page 3/2000)
THE CLIP LINK: The CLIPLINK is your #1 Online
Source for Automotive fasteners, body shop, auto body clips, fasteners,
retainers, body bolts and more
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STEPDOWN TRIM RETAINER K- GAP now stocks stainless Stepdown trim retainers. The retainers can be bought in the sizes needed to reinstall the factory trim onto your car. The trim comes in 6-inch sections, which can be cut into pieces or used as it comes. Mounting is via screws as with originals. Two positive characteristics of these replacement trims: The Hudson stainless is held tightly in place, but it can be slipped off without undue mechanical action, two: the trim is stainless steel and will not rust like originals. . STEPDOWN STAINLESS RETAINER ALTERNATIVE: ( Editor recommends using KGAP or NOS if available) Editor Note: since using this method, Chevrolet has discontinued the plastic parts from stock; perhaps the Chevy Truck restoration parts providers have these parts? I do not know. The part is nothing more than a flat piece of approximately 1/16-inch thick plastic that is pliable enough to stay inside the trim when cut to the appropriate size. I would believe a craft or hobby store would be a logical place to look for the raw stock to make retainers. Using retainers from Chevrolet, Suburban. The retainers are plastic and can be snapped into the width you need. In a suburban the stainless has several points in it's length where the edge is cut back to accept the retainer into the stainless. On a Hudson, the retainer corners can be chamfered so it can be moved into place. Once you have all the retainers installed in the HUDSON stainless piece, cut double back automotive trim tape to fit each retainer. Remove one side and stick a single piece to each retainer. Now place the trim piece on the car and mark the top edge where it is to me installed with China marker or something that will not mar the paint. Once you are satisfied the trim is located correctly remove the remaining tape backing and carefully install the trim piece. Use two people do the operation... for several reasons... what is straight for one, is not always straight and two sets of eyes and hands makes for a much easier and straighter result. Robert Ward (May 8 1998 6:02AM) RE: Hornet trim strips I've been through the same exercise, had the stainless trim but no fixing strips. Ended up using a high strength urethane adhesive, 'Sikaflex' brand. Needs a few hours to cure, but it certainly has some strength when set. You'll crease the trims if you try to pull them off. Trims that fit well can be held in place with masking tape during the cure period. Trims that have a bit of spring in them can also be glued on, so long as you can clamp, prop or press them in place during the curing period. Trims are removed by cutting the adhesive with a thin blade between the body and the trim. REMOVAL OF STEPDOWN STAINLESS TRIM CHAT PAGE (Sep. 3 1998 8:48 PM) Use a plastic putty knife between the
stainless and the retainer. Spray between the retainer and stainless with
WD-40 to loosen the rust on the retainer and to lubricate passage of the
plastic putty knife. The plastic putty knife |
Kanter Obsolete Auto Parts - Takes you direct to the interior and carpet area of catalog
SMS Auto Fabrics, 2325 Southeast 10th Avenue, Portland, OR 97214(503) 234-1175 (Older Auto Fabrics)
Check -a- Board Material for Step-down Interiors: address of provider of almost same as original checkerboard material it's the following: Duralee Fabrics Ltd., 1775 Fifth Avenue, Bayshore, N.Y. 11706
Learn to wood grain and develop other talents needed to restore you STEPDOWN with videos from Fred and Ray.
Wood
graining instructions - Do it yourself! From Mac In Florida
via the HET CHAT PAGE-
Painted all 11 pieces with primer, next,
painted a light cream on. First step was to take a 3' ceramic brush and
spreading out a medium oak paste on a piece of Formica, brushed all 11 pieces
very lightly, next, cleaned brush, do the same with dark oak stain, next, do
the same with a light oak liquid stain. After all three stains have been
applied, clean brush, dampen it with thinner, lightly brush over all three
coats, be careful not to blend them together. Let dry, put a medium coat of Min
Wax, clear acrylic satin 'spray'. Next day, do the same, 3rd day, spray on a
heavier, coat, 4th day, spray on a heavy coat. 5th day, go over all pieces with
#4 steel wool. You will be surprised at what you will achieve.' Successes if
you have any trouble, just let me know. You can print this if you want. It has
worked perfect for me.
Wood graining - Another Do it yourself approach - information was presented by Dr. Wendell Spreadbury at the 1999 Big Country Regional Meet Shreveport La.
HOW TO UPHOLSTER An Online Upholstery Class Detailed Instruction on Furniture Upholstery, Auto Upholstery, Marine Upholstery, And Slipcovers
RECOVER A DOOR PANEL- Online step by step instructions... modern vehicle, but methods same
Window Regulators Dave Sollen Punch out rivets, for gear replacement. You can also reverse left and right side gears, to get full closing. Of course, you cannot open full, that way.
Reproduction step down vent window gears made with zinc alloy, higher in aluminum than the Zamak alloys. The company claims it’s about as strong as cast aluminum. Sold each or your regulators can be rebuilt e-mail Gene, Myrna or Gregg Eshelman for pricing.
Complete vintage instrumentation repair and calibration services D and M Restoration can repair and restore all antique, classic and vintage automobile instruments and gauges back to factory original condition. We know how valuable YOUR unit is to YOU and we do not exchange it for a replacement unless those arrangements are discussed beforehand. Visit the web site for a list of our major car instrument restoration services, but is not a comprehensive list, please visit each link and view some before and after photos of some of our work.
Picking the right Hudson Step-down Color at
this Internet Site
Inspecting Automotive Paint - Short course in the subject of finish inspection
Paint links to the major suppliers
Paint Related Terminology - A to G: definitions are brought to you by the good folks at Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes.
The information contained on this page is for recreational use only.
Neither the web master nor the persons used as reference are
warranting your use of this information.
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK